Raise the car up and remove the right front tire. Put the car on a jack stand, you will be working up and down in the wheel well and the car must be safely secured. Once the wheel is off, remove the plastic hold down nut and the plastic attached to the bottom of the inner wheel well. Pull down and forward to get the bottom piece off.

       You need to fold back the plastic and use a pair of needle noise vice grips or similar to hold the plastic in place. The crankshaft pulley has a 30mm nut holding it in place. You will need a 30mm socket, extension, and ratchet to turn the nut that will turn the engine over to line up the timing marks on the crank and cam shaft pulleys. Before doing the alignment, now is a good time to remove the serpentine belt. Volvo has a special tool that fits on the end of a inch breaker bar that makes it inch. Note the routing of the belt for when you have to put the belt back on. The older style tensioner can be worked with a 3/8-inch ratchet.

       The alignment of the intake and exhaust camshaft pulleys is a little tricky. There are small scribe marks on the outer edge, I have enhanced the drawings with white markings but in real life it can be hard to spot the marks. Don't make your own and assume as long as you don't move anything it won't matter. I have also enhanced the top cover marks that the pulley has to line up with.

       At the same time you are bringing the camshaft pulleys into alignment you have to be lining up the crankshaft marking. The crankshaft marking is the most critical of the alignments; if you line it up correctly the camshaft markings will fall into the two "V" marks on the upper cover. I use a inch drive ratchet with a 12-inch extension to turn the engine in a clockwise direction to line up the marks. Finding the little cut out in the valley of the crankshaft gear is difficult. If you pass it, back up several teeth and then back again clockwise. Good lighting is critical.

       Once you have the marks all lined up, gently push the fuel lines back and work the top alignment cover up and out of the way. The white arrow is pointing to the water pump, inspect where it is fastened into the block. Look for coolant seepage from the pump, if you have a leak, replace the pump and seal. The blue/green arrow is pointing to the top 12mm bolt on the hydraulic tensioner. 3/8-inch ratchet with a 12mm socket will break the bolt loose and then you can reach down and unscrew it by hand, you can also reach up from the bottom to unscrew the bolt. Always do the top 12mm bolt first.