Maintenance/Service Items For FWD/AWD

Service intervals and what is done at the service interval is always being discussed. Service and price from one Volvo shop to another will vary depending on what is actually being done at the service. The starting point for Scheduled Maintenance should be your owner's manual. I say starting point because the owner's manual only covers the major basic items, and with time the Repair shops discover items that should be addressed at the service. If you are not going to do your own work, I would recommend you chose a Volvo Dealer or and Independent Shop that specializes in Volvos only. To keep things simple use Volvo Parts. Using non-Volvo parts because they are cheaper can lead to problems down the road. Because of all the different intervals from 1993 to present, I'll cover the service item and mention the interval. Intervals between the models range from 5K to 10K, and a lot of the reasoning behind the longer interval has become political. In order to brag about lower annual maintenance cost items are left out or the interval is just increased. Despite all the new high tech that goes into the making of today's cars, the various oils and tires that are on the vehicle don't last any longer then they did 10 years ago.

Oil Change

The oil change will need the oil filter, up to seven quarts of oil and an aluminum crush ring for the drain plug. How often should the oil be changed? My findings have shown that between 4 and 5 thousand miles is about right for the interval. My conclusion is based on sampling oil every thousand miles from 1K to 7K. The results from the oil samples showed at 4K the contaminants from use begin to double. There maybe something to Jiffy Lubes "every three thousand miles" jingle. Using synthetic oil without an additional filtering system doesn't change the contamination, or the break down of the additives that are in the oil. If you sample your oil and can prove to yourself that it's OK to wait longer by all means do so. I mention 5K as a max interval but would recommend the 3-4K range. If you change the oil every 3-4K it falls right in with the mileage that you should rotate your tires. (More on tires later) When you change the oil, warm the car up and then let it drain until you only have droplets. If you have a turbo there is an oil cooler. The 1994 to 1998 use part of the radiator for the cooling and the 1999 on have an external cooler on the back of the engine. It is not necessary to drain the cooler with your oil change, your only going to get about a cup out of the 94-98, and a half of a cup on the 99. The crush washer for the drain plug should be aluminum and torqued to 26 LbFts. Any other crush washer would require more or less torque and could damage the oil pan threads or allow leaking. The oil filter should be Volvo or Mann. Mann makes the filter for the Volvo, so both are the same. The check valve in the oil filter is set for the Volvo and most other (cheaper) filter don't even have a check valve or the amount of filtering used in the Volvo filter. Put some oil on the filter rubber gasket and hand tighten into place. (Use one hand) The oil cap has a rubber gasket in it, it is a good idea to replace that gasket every other oil change to keep the cap from leaking. When you change the oil it is the perfect time to inspect the under side of the vehicle. A trained "Volvo" technician looking at your car can let you know if repairs are critical or can wait till later.

Under Car Inspection

Most of what I'm describing here is done with the car on a lift making it very easy and it doesn't take that much time, however it can still be done on ramps in your drive way or garage. From the back of the car follow the exhaust from the tail pipe to the manifold looking for cracks, scrapes, broken hangers, carbon build up at joints that may indicate an exhaust leak. Look at the bottom of the fuel tank to ensure it's not damaged. Look at the rear brake calipers and lines for leaks or crimps. Spin the wheels around looking for bent rims or bubbles on the sidewalls of your tires. Check the wiring from the O2 sensors forward to make sure it's in place and no critters have been chewing on it. The O2 sensors wiring is not fused and should it short out, the entire engine wiring harness can melt. At the front of the car spin the wheels, check the boots on the drive shaft looking for rips and grease that will seep out. Look at the link rod boots and the outer tie rod boots. Check over the power steering rack for seeping or leaks. Look over the ball joints checking for play with a pry bar, there should be none. Look at the oil pan and up from all sides looking for leaks. If any leaks are found follow them up until you can find the source. Look at the sub frame for scrapes or dents which may indicate the need for an alignment. Doing an alignment because you see uneven tire wear is too late, the tire is already shot, keep up your tire pressures and a watchful eye on the tread wears. Most of what I've talked about here is looking or commonly called "check" …… for. If skilled eyes are doing the checking it is priceless. I've tried to walk you through what goes on in a good technicians mind when he is under your car, I'm sure I've missed something but the main thing is to take the time to look. The under car checks should be done every time you change your oil.

Tires

Hunter is a company that makes wheel-balancing machines, alignment machines and more than likely other machinery as well. The above two pieces of equipment can be found in almost every Repair shop in the country. Hunter also has training for the use of their equipment; in the training tire rotation is recommended every 2-3 kmiles to get max wear out of your tires. I don't know of anyone besides myself that rotates the tires as often. If you're changing your oil every 3K, this is a perfect time to rotate the tires. When you rotate the tires it's a good idea to balance the tires that are going to be put on the front. Most shops rotate tires front to back, this is a carry over from years ago because of problems with a particular manufacture and their tires. This problem doesn't exist today and the tires should be rotated front to back and back crossed to the front. If you have directional tires then you are stuck with front to back rotations. Before rotating your tires check the tread wear pattern for abnormal wearing. Rub your hand over the tread both ways feeling for edges. Consider if you might need an alignment. Regardless of the tire wear patterns you should have an alignment at least once a year, and if driving on rough toads do it twice a year. If you jump a curve or hit anything hard, get an alignment.

Brakes

Your brakes should be checked every time you change the oil. When you take the wheels off to rotate them you can get a good look at the pads and rotors. The front pads should be replaced when you have 3mm or less, the rotors should be replaced when the measure 23.8mm. You can us a small metal ruler to measure the pads but you'll need a dial caliper to measure the rotors. The rear pads should be replaced when they are at 2mm or less and the rotors replaced when measuring 8.9mm or less. When inspecting the pads, compare inner and outer pads for even wear to ensure your calipers are not sticking. If you can see your pads through the wheels you can do a quick check of the pads by comparing the remaining pad to the backing plate that is about 5mm.

Coolant

With the engine cold, remove the cap and top off with 50/50 mixture of coolant. If you have a gray coolant cap you should consider getting a new green one as the gray caps are noted for cracking after a few years. Check all your coolant lines for seepage; you might also tighten the clamps just a bit with a 7mm socket. I change my coolant every other year regardless of mileage, at least do it at the 60K mark. I you are not going to use Volvo coolant make sure the coolant you decide to use has these ingredients; Ethylene Glycol, Diethylene Glycol, Sebacic Acid, Dodium Hydroxide, 2-Ethylhexanic Acid, Corrosion inhibitors, Defoamers and Silicates. The short version is Ethylene Glycol Based Coolant.

Washer Fluid

Top your washer fluid when you run out, or when changing the oil. Check connections, and check valves and if they are seeping replace them.

Battery

Remove the caps and adjust the level if low. Don't over fill the battery or when it warms up from charging or the weather the fluid will expand out and begin to eat your Volvo. Check and clean your terminals with baking soda and water if the white or green stuff is growing on the terminals. Use distilled water for topping the battery.

Power Steering

Check the level of the fluid and adjust as needed. The fluid is type "F" transmission fluid; it should be pink, so if it turns brown consider flushing the fluid.

Belts

Check the serpentine belt for cracks and wear, replace the belt if you find cracks or have 60K miles on the belt. The timing belt on the 1993 is done every 50K, and the 1994 - 1998 are done every 70K miles. If you should have five years on your belt and have not reached the mileage yet, change the belt anyway. Time does have and effect on the rubber-timing belt. The FWD Volvo has interfering valves, so if the belt breaks the valves will hit the pistons and a new rebuilt head will be needed.

Brake Fluid

Check the fluid level and adjust as needed. The fluid should be flushed if the moisture content is above 2%. Flushing the brake fluid is part of a 30K service, however if you live in an area with high humidity, flushing the fluid every two years would be in order. The Volvo uses DOT 4 Plus brake fluid; you don't have to use Volvo brake fluid however you do need to use Dot 4 Plus or better.

Plugs

The plugs are scheduled to be changed every 30K. When you change the plugs check their condition for fouling or lean running. The Haynes manual has pictures of plugs and what they should look like. I haven't heard of a better plug than the Volvo plugs, so I'd stick with what works.

Cap, Rotor and Wires

50K is a good time to change the cap and rotor. The wires should last to at least 100K. You won't find changing of the cap and rotor in writing anywhere but my experience has shown that between 50-60K the cap and rotor have a lot of arcing and carbon build up. If you don't do your own maintenance you can just ask your repair facility to check and replace if they arcing and carbon fouling.

Hinge Lubrication

Every 5-10K miles you need to lubricate the hinges on the hood, trunk and doors. Don't forget to clean the radio antenna mast as well.

Filters

The air filter is replaced every 30K miles, however if you live in a high pollen or dusty area you might want to check it every 25K. The gas filter should be replaced every 60K miles, I have seen writings that say the gas filter is good for 100K miles, however after cutting open gas filters at 60K miles I know 60K is a good time to change the filter. The 1998 models and on have pollen filters or cabin filters they should be changed at least every 15K miles. If you have an S/V40 the cabin filter should be changed every 10K because the filter is small and just doesn't go 15K miles without being really clogged up. The 1993 to 1995 don't have pollen filters however there is a kit, so you can install one at home.

Throttle Body

The throttle should be cleaned at least every 20K miles. The type of cleaning depends on the area of the country you live in. The D.C. metro area requires only a cleaning with a rag that is soaked with a good cleaner. I have talked to other technicians in different parts of the country and it seems a much deeper cleaning by actual removal of the throttle body is required. To remove the TB take off the hose attached to the TB and then the four 10mm bolts that hold the TB to the intake manifold, and give it a good cleaning. While cleaning the throttle body the non-turbos have a flame trap that should also be replaced at the 20K.