Start cutting hog rings at the bottom of the seat, push back with one hand and reach in with dikes to cut the rings. There should be four across the bottom. If you have heated seats do not be alarmed the heating grids are secured to the foam rubber backing and not the actual seat cover. The rings you are cutting are holding the front and back seat cover with rods that are in the cover, kind of like curtain rods.
Once you have both sides free, slowly begin rolling up the seat cover and cut hog rings as you go. I find that going up two rows is all that is needed. There are no hog rings in the back. Once you have the front looking like the above picture, it's time to move to the back.
I normally pull the back up as far as I can and keep it in place with a bungie cord wrapped around the head rest. When you move from the front to the back, slowly begin rolling up the back, the blue arrows are pointing to clips that need to be unhooked as you are rolling the back up. (remember where you unhook them from because they have to go back.) I get the spring by the red arrow out of the way by pulling with my dikes. The spring on the right side can stay there. The Yellow arrow is pointing to the 8mm screws that hold a plate in place to keep the cable in the motor. These screws have to come out and the plate moved so you can take the cable out of the motor. You can see the tie wrap in the center top of the seat holding the cable, it will have to be cut.
Now moving to the left side of the back, where the gearing is located. You can also get a good look at the lumbar support mechanism
The four purple arrows show where the Phillips screws (were). The blue arrow is a "C" clip that is pulled out so the gear plate can be slid side ways. The red arrow is the cable end where it goes into the gear box.
The Red arrow is the end of the cable, pull it to the right to get it to come out. You don't want to pull to much or you will cause the white plastic gearing to fall out. (just an inch or so) Once the cable is out put the new one in by shoving the cable down into where the blue arrow is. I hate to say it but now it's just assemble in reverse order. J You can put some grease on the gears, vasoline will work. Some vechicles have the motor on the left side and the gearing on the right side, everything is pretty much the same except the gearing access is a little more tricky, will post a photo when available. Some after thought on the seat back cable. The hog ring pliers can be purchased out of the Eastwood Catalog, or www.eastwoodcompany.com, or 1-800-345-1178. Bent hog ring pliers #52019 are $22.99, Hog ring pack of 100 #52033 are $1.99. Having replaced the cable and before you button everything up you should operate the seat to make sure it works. Quit often you will not have full range on the seat because the potientometer on the motor has been run out of range. The dealer would run a seat calibration with the Volvo Scan tool, you can cheat the system and walk your seat back into full swing. Lets say the seat will not go far enough forward, just keep bumping the forward switch and you will see the seat begin to nudge forward, keep bumping until the seat goes as far forward as you would like, about 11:00 is normal. Then cycle all the way back to all the way forward, just keep playing with it until you have the swing you desire.
Some of the seats have the gearing and the drive motor reversed from the above example. Above is a picture of just such and example. To work this type of seat back cable arrangement, follow the above procedure but when you get to the part that mentions taking the four small Phillips screws out, stop and follow these instructions. Pull the black plastic cover down a bit and back in the direction of the yellow arrows. This will allow you to get to the 10mm bolt on the other side of the light blue arrow. Remove the 10mm bolt and the stand off to the drive gears. Remove the "C" clip at the red arrow and if there is one on the other end of the shaft you can take it off as well, this will allow you to move the square drive shaft to the left or right and allow you to move the gear box inboard enough to get to the 4 small Phillips screws that hold the plate to the gear box in place. One the face plate is off you can work the cable out.
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