The yellow arrows are the black plastic caps that have to be popped off to get the (7mm) hex slide pins out. If you are doing the rotor the 15mm bolts have to come out to remove the pad retaining assembly. (Pink Circle) Don't remove the 15mm right now. Once you have the two slide pins out, they need to be cleaned and greased for replacement later. Now you can wiggle the caliper back and forth to collapse the caliper a bit so you can lift the caliper off of the rotor. The inboard pad will stay attached to the caliper and the outboard usually stays in place.

         The above picture shows the pads removed, caliper collapsed (use channel locks and squeeze it in), cleaned and greased with the silicon grease. If you are only doing the pads, this is a good place to rest the caliper, however if you are going to remove the rotor, I use a bungie cord and hang the caliper from the front strut spring. If you are taking the rotor off wait on the grease job. To remove the rotor from here, secure the caliper, remove the 15mm bolts and set the pad holder out of the way. Remove the 10mm stud, and use a hammer to break the rotor away from the hub.

         Now that the rotor is off, take your wire brush and clean off any rust or build up on the hub mating surfaces. Clean your new rotor, and mount it on the hub with the 10mm stud. (Not too tight its easy to break the stud) Grease up your pad holding bracket, (it's really part of the caliper, but holding bracket is more descriptive) slide it on the rotor and secure it with the 15mm bolts (100 Nm).

         The above picture shows pads greased (backing plates), now flip the caliper back down and push it over the rotor and shove it into place. Insert the greased 7mm hex slide pins and tighten them to 30 Nm, snap the black plastic covers back on. You might want to take the time to grease the steering stops now. Last step is to put the retainer spring back on the front of the caliper and then you are done.